1/5/2024 0 Comments Concrete encased electrodeThe real killer is the price, although I did see some very reasonably priced at the reuse place. It does come in long flexible lengths, but its fittings are expensive and a take much longer to apply than ENT. This is really overkil for a residential wiring application. The Liquid Tight Flexible Non- Metallic tubing is really designed for situations, usually industrial or agricultural, where the conduit frequently gets liquid on it. EMT and PVC also take a lot more work to make each connection. There are also a lot more fittings when you have to put at least one every 10 ft, and the cost of fittings really starts to add up. They can be bent, but that is much more work than the flexible tubes. The first two rows, PVC Conduit and Electrical Metal Tube, come in straight 10 ft pieces. The above chart only tells part of the story. Some are more expensive or difficult to use than others. There are several types of conduit that the NEC (National Electric Code) will accept for concrete encasement. I will need to run my electrical conduit in through that. My walls start with a framework of steel studs and rebar. This is probably the reason that electrical contractors all gave me such ridiculously high bids. With my construction method (steel covered in shotcrete), I don’t have wood frame walls (or even wood furring strips) that I can run wiring through in a traditional manner. I will probably start with the “concrete encased electrode” and also put in a few extra grounding rods and tie onto my well casing (if it ends up with a galvanized casing). Grounding is very important to the electrical system of a home and is probably one of the areas where you want to exceed code. Find out the rule and costs for your area and plan accordingly. Obviously it is not worth paying three times the price just so you can use your well as a grounding rod, but some areas still require the metal casings for all or at least the first 20 ft of the well. PVC casings cost about 1/3rd of a galvanized casing and never corrode. This can work well and should certainly be done if you have a metal well casing. There have been cases when lightning strikes actually cause the moisture in the concrete to rapidly expand, crack and occasionally explodeĪnother popular option is attaching the grounding system to a galvanized well casing (an uber grounding rod). Again, dry soil will not conduct electricity as effectively. However, this method is not as compatible with the earth sheltered umbrella and other water proofing measures that will keep the soil around your foundation very dry. Normally, a concrete encased electrode is a very effective grounding system and the NEC allows it to be used as your only grounding. Since many earth sheltered homes have concrete footings full of rebar, it may seem logical to use a “concrete encased electrode” in the foundation (aka Ufer ground). If you are putting in an insulating umbrella that will keep the earth under your home dry, you will need to move your grounding rods out much further away from the home than an electrician normally would. Most electricians will try to bury one or two rods (separated by at least 6 ft) somewhere near a corner of the house where a downspout is likely to dump water. Since it is all about conducting electricity into the earth, it all works better if there is moisture in the earth. It is important for occupant safety, and surge protection (including lightning).Ĭode can be met a few different ways, but most electricians use one (or more) 8 ft grounding rods buried in the earth. Good electrical ground is able to dump many amps of electricity into the earth with as little resistance as possible. Most of the electrical system for an earth sheltered home is pretty conventional, but there are a few differences.
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